Hello Friends,
The age-old debate over the relative
merits of renting or
buying a home rages on. In fact, it’s doubtful that
a definitive settlement is on the horizon. There are simply too many
variables at play, and too many unique factors affecting individual homeowners’
situations, to make a blanket judgment on the matter.
But one thing is for sure: renting
and home-ownership both come with their fair share of costs. Even if it makes
more financial sense for you and your family, you surely know that owning a
home isn’t cheap. The U.S. Census Bureau reported that the average household
pays $2,127 in real estate taxes, while the Bureau of
Labor Statistics reported that the average homeowner paid
$4,808 in mortgage principal and interest in 2013.
All told, the typical household
puts a significant chunk of its take-home earnings – often 30% or
more in expensive housing markets – toward recurring housing costs such as
mortgage principal and interest, private
mortgage insurance, and homeowners
insurance. Add in utilities, basic upkeep, and other recurring
expenses, and the total cost of home-ownership rises even further.
The good news is that home-ownership
costs aren’t fixed. If you’re willing and able to absorb their upfront costs,
which can potentially be reduced through state and federal tax credits or
financed with rehabilitation loans,
some of these home improvement projects will permanently reduce your
recurring home-ownership expenses. Others obviate costly repair projects,
possibly forever – or at least until you’ve moved out of the house.
Cost-Effective Home Improvement
Projects – Inside the House
1. Do a Home Energy Audit or
Professional Assessment
The best way to build and prioritize
your list of cost-effective home improvement projects is to conduct a
DIY home energy
audit or get a professional home energy assessment. Audits and
assessments evaluate every major system and component of your home to identify
where you’re wasting electricity, losing heat, and otherwise lagging in the
efficiency department.
For example, the following areas are
checked:
·
Drafts
and air leaks emanating from windows, door frames, vents, outlets, and other
imperfectly sealed places
·
Insulation
in the attic, walls, basement, and crawlspaces
·
Mechanical
appliances, such as furnaces, boilers, and water heaters
·
Other
appliances and electronics, including refrigerators, oven ranges, dishwashers,
laundry machines, and televisions
·
Lighting
inside and outside the home
After your audit or assessment, your
to-do list may include a host of cost-effective improvements, such as:
·
Swapping
out old, inefficient appliances for newer, more efficient ones
·
Adding
or replacing substandard insulation
·
Patching
drafts and leaks
·
Replacing
inefficient lighting
·
Upgrading
to smart home systems, such as smart lighting and smart thermostats
·
Replacing
windows, roofs, and other inefficient fixtures
·
Other
improvement projects listed below
DIY audits carry negligible costs. Professional assessments can cost up to
$600, but some utilities and state agencies offer free or reduced-cost
assessments. The time needed to break even depends on what the audit reveals
and the cost of each fix.
2. Swap Your Window AC for a Swamp
Cooler
During the warm season throughout
the United States – and nearly all year long in southerly states like Florida
and Texas – air conditioning adds more than any other single factor
to home electricity bills. Turning down the thermostat or exploring air
conditioning alternatives can significantly reduce air
conditioning bills, but often at the price of indoor comfort.
In areas with consistently dry
summer weather, one of the best ways to combat sky-high AC bills is also one of
the simplest: swapping the window unit for an evaporative cooler, also known as a swamp cooler.
Unfortunately, since swamp coolers cool by evaporation, they don’t work well in
humid climates, where the air is already saturated with moisture.
Depending on the model, smaller
swamp coolers can be mounted in a window or placed on the floor. Both types are
easy for able-bodied homeowners to place or install on their own. In larger
homes, it’s more efficient to install a bigger outdoor unit that cools the
entire house through its ducts.
Swamp coolers work by fanning
warm, dry air over moistened pads, cooling the outflow by up to 40 degrees – just
as a stiff breeze cools sweaty skin. This process works best during the warmest
parts of the day, and when the relative humidity is below 50%. Unlike
central air conditioning systems, which recycle air on a closed loop, swamp
coolers continually cycle fresh air through the house, providing much-needed
ventilation. Since they blow moist air through the house, they also act as
humidifiers.
According to the Department of
Energy, swamp coolers cost about half as much to purchase as central
air conditioners. To operate, they cost as little as one-quarter as much.
However, swamp coolers really only work in the western United States, where
persistent low humidity allows for efficient operation. In the eastern half of
the country, window and central AC units make more sense. If you’re unsure
about evaporative cooling’s potential in your area, check this handy map and
guide from The Home Depot.
Swamp cooler units cost $200 to more than $1,000, depending on cooler size
and coverage. Homes larger than 1,500 square feet are likely to require more
than one cooler for complete coverage. According to HomeAdvisor, central evaporative cooling systems cost
$1,408 to $3,299 (with installation) on average. Some utilities offer generous
rebates on evaporative coolers. For instance, XCel Energy‘s Colorado subsidiary ran a limited-time rebate
program in 2015 and 2016 that refunded up to $300 for standard systems, $700
for higher-cost “premium” systems, and $1,200 for whole-house systems.
The Department of Energy reports
that air conditioning accounts for 22% of the average home’s electricity costs.
Based on the average residential electricity bill of $114.09 per month, or
$1,369.08 per year (per 2013 EIA data), that’s $301.20 per year. Assuming 75% energy
savings, the typical homeowner can save $225.90 per year by switching to
evaporative cooling. Without utility rebates, the breakeven point is therefore
less than 18 months on cheap units and upwards of 10 years on central units
that require professional installation.
However, homeowners who require
central units are likely to live in larger homes with higher average
electricity bills. With higher absolute annual savings, they’re likely to hit
the breakeven point faster.
3. Clean and Change Your Air
Conditioner Filters
Cleaning and changing air
conditioner filters is well within the capabilities of most able-bodied
homeowners. That’s good, because these are very much recurring tasks – more
home maintenance than home improvement.
They’re also very much worth your
time and effort. According to the Department of Energy, replacing an old, dirty filter with a
clean filter can reduce air conditioning costs by 5% to 15%.
In central cooling systems, the
filter is generally located in the return duct, within easy reach of a vent.
Accessing it may require removing the screws or fasteners that hold the vent
plate in place. Larger systems can have multiple filters, so check your
system’s specs to ensure you have them all covered. For safety, turn off and
unplug the air conditioner before taking out any filters.
Filters come in several different
types. Fiberglass filters, which resemble fine-mesh window
screens, should be replaced every month during the cooling season,
assuming heavy use during that time. Pleated filters, which resemble miniature
quilts, need to be replaced every two to three months. Media filters, which are
basically ultra-thick pleated filters, need to be replaced every six to eight
months. However, these life spans can be extended somewhat with thorough,
regular cleaning every two weeks. To clean each type of filter, take it outside
and shake it off, then wipe it down with a damp cloth and allow it to air dry.
In window and wall units, the filter
is located immediately behind the cool air vent, which faces into the room. To
access, simply snap off the vent panel and remove the filter. Every month, wipe
your units’ filters down with a damp cloth and dry thoroughly before replacing,
as the filters usually sit close to electrical wires. During heavy operation,
window units’ filters should be replaced at least every year – so, if your
cooling season lasts for six months of the year, you can go two years between
replacements.
There is no cost to clean filters and coils. Filters are generally inexpensive,
with fiberglass and pleated options available for less than $6 apiece. Due
to the low cost of the project, regular cleanings and filter changes pay for
themselves as they’re completed.
4. Buy a Smart or Programmable
Thermostat
Manually setting your thermostat to
a less-than-comfortable reading can save big bucks. You just have to be okay
with sweating it out in the summer and bundling up with sweaters and blankets
in the winter. Programmable and smart thermostats can achieve similar results
with much less discomfort.
Programmable thermostats let you
divide your days into discrete blocks and set desired temperatures for each –
for instance, higher settings when you wake up and return home from work, and
lower settings overnight and during the workday. Smart thermostats, such as the Nest Learning Thermostat, go even further. They actually
adjust to your household routines, temperature preferences, external weather
conditions, and your location inside or outside the house (using your phone’s
GPS).
According to House Logic, a programmable thermostat can save up to $180 per
year, depending on baseline heating and cooling costs. According to Nest,
the company’s smart thermostat reduces heating costs by 10% to 12% and trims
cooling costs by 15%, for average annual savings of up to $145. Provided you
follow all instructions carefully, you can probably install a thermostat
yourself in an hour or two. If you can’t, HomeAdvisor pegs the average thermostat installation cost
at $106 to $253.
Cost and Time to Break Even
Basic programmable thermostats cost $20 to $100. Fancier models, which have
more zones and finer-tuned programming options (as well as smart phone
integration capabilities), cost up to $400. Smart thermostats cost $150 and up.
By House Logic’s reckoning, a basic programmable thermostat can pay for itself
within a month, while a costlier model can take six months or longer. Smart
thermostats take about a year to pay for themselves, depending on baseline
climate control costs. With paid installation, the time to break even is
longer.
5. Install Low-Flow Fixtures
In most places, water isn’t as
expensive as electricity, but needless water use can certainly cut into
your disposable income over time. Plus, in drought-prone areas, saving
water is an excellent idea regardless of monetary price.
Water-conserving fixtures, such as
low-flow toilets and shower heads, are cheaper and more reliable now than ever
before. As your budget allows, swap out old, wasteful fixtures for modern,
efficient alternatives.
According to the EPA,
the investment pays for itself many times over. Toilets bearing the Water Sense
label (basically the water equivalent of the ENERGY STAR rating) save the
average family of four $110 per year and $2,200 over their expected 20-year
lifespan. (If you’re worried about performance, consider purchasing a
dual-flush toilet, which flushes solid waste with twice as much water.)
Low-flow faucets reduce tap water
usage by up to 30%. Low-flow shower heads can reduce shower volume by up to
70% without compromising pressure. They also reduce water heating demands by
comparable ratios, cutting electricity or gas bills. All told, low-flow
fixtures reduce water usage by 25% to 60%, per the Department of Energy. According to the DOE, the average household spends $400 to $600 on hot water
heating per year, so a 60% reduction equates to up to $360 in savings per year
($30 per month).
The cost of low-flow appliances varies widely. Low-flow toilets cost $200
and up. Low-flow shower heads cost anywhere from $10 to $50. Low-flow faucets
cost anywhere from $10 to more than $100. In a home with two full bathrooms and
one kitchen sink, a project to replace all fixtures with low-flow
alternatives would cost at least $450, and would take less than a year to
pay for itself after accounting for water and hot water heating savings.
6. Swap Out Wasteful Appliances for
High-Efficiency Models
Home appliances and mechanical
systems are becoming more efficient by the year. If your furnace, boiler,
dishwasher, refrigerator, dryer, or washing machine is more than 10 years old,
its late-model counterpart is virtually guaranteed to be more efficient. For
instance, efficient front-loading washers use approximately 30% less water and
energy than traditional top-loading washers, according to a Reviewed study. New ENERGY STAR-rated dishwashers use
approximately 40% less water than older models, according to Life hacker.
If you’re willing to venture outside
your comfort zone, consider swapping old appliances or systems for
fundamentally different alternatives. According to Bob Vila, a hydronic radiant floor
heating system costs up to 30% less to operate than a
traditional forced-air system, though it can cost some 50% more to install (per This Old
House). According to the Department of Energy, tank-less water heaters can be up to 34%
more efficient in households that use relatively little hot water, and up to
15% more efficient in households with higher hot water demands. By the
Department of Energy’s reckoning, the average household spends $400 to $600 on
water heating each year.
New washing machines cost anywhere from $300 to more than $1,000, and new
clothes dryers cost anywhere from $200 to more than $1,000. New, full-size
refrigerators cost anywhere from $350 to more than $2,000. Small tank-less
water heaters cost $200 and up, while larger models can cost $500 and up. New
radiant floor heating systems cost $5,000 and up, depending on house size.
The breakeven time varies
considerably by project and appliance or system selection. In high-demand
households that spend $600 to heat water each year, a tank less heater that
costs $500 and achieves 15% savings pays for itself in approximately
five-and-a-half years.
7. Seal Leaky Windows and Doors
Old single-pane windows are up to
25% less efficient than new double-pane windows. Unfortunately, it’s expensive
to upgrade. HomeAdvisor pegs the cost of new, double-hung vinyl
windows at up to $800 apiece. Wood windows cost even more – up to $1,000
apiece.
For a cheaper DIY fix, you can seal
leaky windows (and doors) yourself. According to the Department of Energy, weather-stripping old windows and
doors improves their efficiency by 5% to 10%. This type of
project is well within reach of the typical homeowner. Before starting, check
out online video tutorials to familiarize yourself with the process.
It costs between $3 to $30 to weather strip windows and doors, depending
on the size of the job and materials used. ($30 worth of materials is enough to
weather strip several windows.) Lower-cost weather stripping projects can pay
for themselves within weeks, while costlier projects can take more than a year.
8. Insulate Hot Water Pipes
This is a straightforward DIY
project that takes a few hours at most and can reduce your electricity or gas
bill by a small but meaningful amount each year – up to $12 annually for the
average household, according to the Department of Energy.
Common types of pipe insulation
include foam pipe sleeves and fiberglass strips. Start by measuring the
total length of pipe you wish to insulate and purchase enough material to
finish the job. Then, measure out each discrete pipe segment (for example, from
the water heater to the point where the pipe dives into the wall) and cut your
insulation to size. Use duct tape, acrylic, or cable ties to secure each
segment. Avoid placing insulation within six inches of a gas heater’s flue.
When working with fiberglass insulation, wear skin, eye, and mouth protection.
Pipe insulation projects are inexpensive. The only significant cost is an
average of $10 to $15 for materials, though possibly more for larger
houses. At average cost, the breakeven time is approximately one year.
9. Install New, Efficient Windows
and Doors
DIY window and door seals don’t
always cut it – sometimes, you need to install brand-new windows and doors.
Fortunately, installing high-efficiency windows and doors is regarded as one of
the surest ways to increase
your home’s resale value and build equity. If you’re
planning to sell soon, this alone could offset your project’s cost.
Wood windows are charming, but
unless you feel that they’re essential to preserve your home’s character, vinyl
windows are more affordable – $300 to $800 apiece, versus $800 to $1,000
apiece for high-efficiency wood windows. New doors cost even more – $504 to
$1,336, on average, according to HomeAdvisor.
If you’ve installed windows or doors
before, you can probably do so again with help from a family member.
However, improper installation can greatly compromise efficiency and cause
other problems over time, so it may be worthwhile to pay a professional.
According to DIY Network, installing a window is an all-day project with
eight major steps and a high skill rating.
Given the high cost of efficient replacement windows, replacement projects can
take several years to pay for themselves via energy savings. However,
high-efficiency windows are attractive to prospective homebuyers, and can
therefore offset their initial cost (and perhaps actually make the investment
profitable) through higher sale prices.
Tax credits and other efficiency
incentives may reduce the total cost of your window and door installation
project. For instance, through the end of 2016, the Department of Energy offered a tax credit equal to 10% of
new window and door costs, not including installation, up to $200 for windows
and $500 for doors.
10. Install a Garbage Disposal in
Your Kitchen Sink
No matter how advanced your
dishwashing skills, it’s impossible to completely avoid sending kitchen waste
down the drain. Over time, food particles and other debris build up in your
pipes, slowing and in some cases stopping your drains completely. Left
untreated, clogged drains can cause serious, costly problems, particularly in
homes with older plumbing or septic systems. If an excavation is required
to unclog or replace damaged piping or equipment, you’re immediately looking at
thousands of dollars in costs not likely to be covered by
homeowners insurance.
Garbage disposals aren’t foolproof,
but they can definitely reduce the amount of solid waste in your drainage
pipes. If you’re handy and no advanced electrical work is
required, you can probably install a garbage disposal system on your own,
provided you carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions. However, if
you’re not confident in your skills as a plumber, it’s probably worthwhile
to hire someone for the job.
New garbage disposal systems cost $60 or more, depending on size and make.
Professionally installed systems cost at least $125. More robust and
durable systems can cost at least $150 without installation, and at least $225
with installation, depending on size and make.
Since installing a garbage disposal
is a proactive move that can delay or even eliminate the eventual need for a
costly plumbing intervention, it’s difficult to say how long the typical
garbage disposal installation project takes to pay for itself. However, in older
homes with shaky plumbing, it’s worth it both for the long-term financial
savings and the short-term peace of mind.
11. Plant a Large Shade Tree
If your house is totally exposed to
the sun, consider planting a shade tree or two near the structure. Look for
species that grow quickly and achieve thick crowns when mature, such as maples,
poplars, willows, and birches. Select a planting site that aligns with the
summer sun’s angle – likely south-southwest of your house, depending on your
latitude. If you’re unsure exactly where to place the tree or trees, walk
around your neighborhood with a compass (or compass smart phone app)
to measure large trees’ shade angles and coverage.
Fast-Growing-Trees has
a good list of climate-appropriate options. If you live in a cold-winter
climate, choose trees that lose their leaves in fall, as winter sun exposure
can reduce your heating bills.
The cost of a new tree varies widely based on tree size and age. Older, taller
trees cost more. Budget at least $50 for a five-foot tree, plus $20 more for
optional supplies such as mulch, planting soil, and fertilizer.
Fast-Growing-Trees sells a five- to six-foot red maple for
$49.95 and a five- to six-foot river birch for $99.95. If your home is close to the
street, you may be able to get a free street tree from your municipality. Ask
your city’s public works department if they honor street tree requests.
This project’s time to break even
depends on the tree’s position, growth rate, and mature size, which is why it’s
important to look for trees that quickly grow to a large size. Once the tree
overshadows the home, it should pay for itself within a year or two.
12. Invest in a Cool Roof
On hot, sunny days, your roof turns
into a gigantic heating pad, roasting even the best-insulated attics and
upper floors. Much of your AC’s effort is wasted in a futile fight against
this simple thermodynamic effect.
A cool roof doesn’t actually cool
your house, but it can dramatically reduce upper-floor heat gain. According to
the EPA, light-colored, reflective cool roofs stay up to 60
degrees cooler on hot days, providing average net energy savings of $0.50 per
square foot, per year – so, if your roof is 1,000 square feet, your net annual
energy savings average $500. Though they can cost up to $0.20 more per square
foot to install than conventional roofs, they can pay for themselves
several times over.
Like any major roofing job, removing
a traditional roof and installing a cool roof is best left to professionals,
meaning you’ll have to budget for installation and material costs. In warm,
sunny climates, including most of the southern United States, cool roofs are
clearly cost-effective. In colder climates, cool roofs can take longer to
pay for themselves, as their reflectivity limits passive solar heating in
winter.
Cool roofs cost anywhere from $0.75 to $3 per square foot, depending on roof
slope and material. That amounts to $750 to $3,000 for a 1,000-square-foot
roof, not including installation. According to Fixr,
roofing contractors’ labor costs typically run about $3 per square foot, or
$3,000 for a 1,000-square-foot roof. (However, labor costs can vary widely by
market and between individual contractors.) With installation, then, a new cool
roof can cost anywhere from $3,750 to $6,000 per 1,000 square feet, on
average. At net annual energy savings of $500, the investment pays for
itself in approximately seven-and-a-half to twelve years.
13. Set Up Clotheslines or Drying
Racks
According to the California Energy Commission, the average load of laundry
costs $0.32 to $0.41 to dry with an electric dryer and $0.15 to $0.33 to dry
with a gas dryer. What if you could greatly reduce this
laundry expense, or even avoid it completely?
Though not as fast or as powerful as
powered dryers, clotheslines and drying racks offer cost-effective solutions,
especially for larger families. The simplest type of clothesline is a
line-and-pulley system, which can be strung up from two existing points in
your basement or yard (such as fence posts or even small trees). Because the
rope needs to double back on itself for adjustability, your clothesline must be
at least twice as long as the length between the two anchor points. Also,
if placed outside, it must be made of material durable enough to withstand high
winds and other hazards, and preferably not placed in areas that receive lots
of windborne debris (such as dust and leaf particles).
If you’re space-challenged, an
umbrella clothesline is probably a better option. To set up an umbrella
clothesline, you need a digging implement (ideally a post digger, but a regular
shovel will suffice in a pinch), a PVC pipe to hold the base of the clothesline’s
pole, concrete mix, and an umbrella clothesline kit. As long as you’re
comfortable working with small amounts of concrete, this is a fine DIY project.
Hanging technique varies, but you
generally need at least two clothespins for larger clothing items, such as
shirts, pants, and dresses. Smaller items, such as socks and underwear,
typically need just one clothespin. If your line is exposed to the wind, you
may need additional pins for added security.
Depending on weather conditions,
clothes need anywhere from a few hours to a full day to fully line dry. In arid
climates, drying outdoors during the day is probably the most efficient
approach. In more humid climates and during the winter, drying inside (perhaps
in a basement with a dehumidifier running) is preferable. Clothes dry quickly
in direct sunlight, but repeated sun exposure can lead to bleaching.
Basic line-and-pulley clotheslines cost $20 and up. Small umbrella systems cost
$60 and up, but larger systems can exceed $100. The time needed to break even
varies widely based on laundry needs. Users who replace 10 dryer loads per
month save anywhere from $1.50 to $4.10 per month, or $18 to $49.20 per
year. At those rates, line-and-pulley systems pay for themselves within a year,
while umbrella systems pay for themselves within two.
14. Set Up a Rainwater Harvesting
System
If you live in a dry region or have
a garden that requires supplemental watering, a rainwater collection and
storage system can trim your home water bills. The simplest collection
systems are known as rain barrels – literally, barrels (usually 55 gallons)
that collect water as it runs off your roof and into your gutters.
Commercial rain barrels cost at
least $50, but it’s possible to re-purpose old, sealed barrels for much less –
for example, Future House Farm describes a system that uses old
Coca-Cola syrup barrels at $10 a pop. Some towns and cities, especially in
drought-prone areas, distribute rain barrels at reduced or no cost (ask your
city’s public works department or water authority for information). More
complicated systems with below-ground cisterns and pumps can cost hundreds or
thousands of dollars, but may allow you to replace some or all of your indoor
water as well.
Able-bodied homeowners can easily
install rain barrels without professional help. Lowe’s has a good primer on the process. In addition to
the barrel itself, consider buying a soaker hose leading to your garden or a
pump to channel excess water into an auxiliary storage tank. These
add-ons can prevent overflow and water loss during heavy downpours.
Commercial rain barrels cost at least $50, but it’s possible to find
improvised barrels for much less (and possibly free). Soaker hoses cost $10 and
up, and small water pumps cost at least $20. Larger models can be several
times as expensive – $60 and up.
The time it takes for a rainwater
harvesting system to pay for itself depends on its upfront cost, the amount of
water it’s able to save, and the local price of water. On a system that saves
4,000 gallons annually at a per-gallon price of $0.003, a rainwater harvesting
system saves $12 per year, paying for itself in less than seven years (assuming
material costs on the low end). Systems that save more water can pay for
themselves more quickly.
15. Switch to Native or
Climate-Appropriate Landscaping
For increased water savings,
consider switching to climate-appropriate or native
landscaping, which can further reduce or totally eliminate your
supplemental watering needs. These types of landscaping are especially
useful and cost-effective in arid or drought-prone areas, where “traditional,”
water-intensive landscaping options such as turf lawns are not sustainable
without lots of supplemental water. Native landscapes incorporate only plants
that exist in the region’s natural environments, while climate-appropriate
landscapes incorporate plants that hail from similar climates around the world.
Native or climate-appropriate
landscaping necessarily varies by location. In very dry climates, xeriscapes –
desert landscapes – incorporate rocks, succulents, and super-hardy grasses. In
areas with moderate precipitation or well-defined wet and dry seasons, grasses
and drought-tolerant shrubs dominate. Before tearing up your lawn, check with
local landscaping professionals or consult your state university’s agricultural
department for appropriate plants. For instance, the University of Minnesota’s Plant
Elements of Design Database is a comprehensive, searchable
resource with information about Minnesota-native and cold-tolerant plants.
Native landscaping costs vary widely based on plant selection and labor costs.
According to Southern California Public Radio, installation can cost
anywhere from $3.75 to $18 per square foot, or $1,875 to $9,000 for a
500-square-foot plot. The piece mentions a municipal demonstration garden in
Santa Monica that cost just over $11 per square foot to install.
The time to break even depends on
watering needs. A 500-square-foot native landscape that saves 50,000 gallons
per year at an average cost of $0.003 per gallon would take approximately 12
years to pay for itself at the low end of the cost scale. However, in
drought-prone areas, nonnative landscapes can use significantly more than
50,000 gallons of supplemental water per year, so the savings can be much
greater. For example, KQED found that the average Californian home used nearly
70,000 gallons of water for landscaping each year, and homeowners with large properties
likely use much more.
16. Periodically Stain and Seal
Wood Decks and Siding
Staining and sealing wood isn’t
anyone’s idea of a good time. However, doing so regularly can greatly increase
the lifespan of your home’s natural outdoor wood and stave off costly
replacement projects. According to HGTV,
it can cost anywhere from $15 to $35 per square foot to replace a wooden deck,
or $1,500 to $3,500 for a 10′ x 10′ space. CHOICE
Roofing Group pegs the cost of cedar siding at $6 to $8 per
square foot, or $6,000 to $8,000 per 1,000 square feet.
By contrast, a one-gallon can of
waterproof stain, usually enough to cover 300 square feet or more, sets you
back $40 or $50, at most. Wood siding generally needs a fresh coat every three
to five years. Decks need to be coated every two to three years, though heavily
used decks in harsh climates may require annual applications.
To properly stain a deck or siding,
you need a tarp, brush, roller, rags, and a bucket to hold the liquid you’re
working with. Before buying your supplies, measure the space and research
your wood types to ensure you’re using the proper product.
A one-gallon can of waterproof stain, covering 250 to 400 square feet,
typically costs $30 to $50. Budget at least $20 and up for additional
supplies, depending what you already have on hand. To cover a 100-square-foot
deck and 1,000 square feet of siding, you can expect to spend up to $300.
However, that’s far less than the cost of replacing your outdoor wood.
Easy Fixes and Quick Tips
You don’t need to be handy or have
loads of extra time to follow these quick, money-saving tips. Each can be done
in your spare time or incorporated into your regular routine.
1. Use Lint and Hair Catches in
Shower and Laundry Drains
Over time, lint from your laundry
appliances and hair from your shower drain can do serious damage to your home’s
drainage system, particularly if you have an older home with
well-used plumbing. You can stave off or eliminate this risk with catches,
which trap lint, hair, and other fibrous debris that can clog your drain.
Catches come in a dizzying array of configurations, but shower drain catches
generally mold to the shape of your drain, under the stopper, while lint
catches resemble mesh socks that fit over your washing machine’s outlet hose.
Bathroom and kitchen sink catches generally resemble fine mesh screens that mold
to the drains’ shape. Shower and sink catches can last for years with monthly
cleaning, but lint catches generally need to be replaced every month or two.
2. Close Doors to Seldom-Used
Rooms and Closets on Exterior Walls
Unless you’re extremely efficient,
you likely don’t use all of your home’s livable square footage – or even close
to it. Little-used rooms, such as spare bedrooms, can run up your heating and
cooling costs with little to show for it. To a lesser degree, so can closets
along exterior walls, which have more direct exposure to the outdoors. Reduce
the strain on your heating and cooling systems – and your bottom line –
by closing doors to extra rooms and exterior-wall closets whenever they’re
not in use. Of course, if your home is too big for your needs, you’ll save a
lot more in the long term by downsizing.
3. Power Off and Unplug Idle
Electronics
Even when they’re turned off, idle
TVs, cable boxes, computers, and other small electronics continue to drain
power and drive up your electricity bill. Get in the habit of unplugging your
electronics after turning them off, or use a smart power strip, such as a Bits Energy Saving Smart Strip, to cut off power to your
devices without physically unplugging them.
4. Switch to Efficient Light Bulbs
Every time an old incandescent bulb
burns out, replace it with a more efficient CFL or LED
light bulb. For maximum cost-effectiveness, purchase a bulk supply
(six- or 12-packs, if possible) in advance.
5. Try a Shower Timer
Even with a low-flow shower head, a
“dumb” shower timer can help you conserve water further by essentially quilting
you into cutting your showers short. Most are equipped with alarms that go off
after a set period of time, which you can set yourself. Some come with measuring
bags that you can use to measure the exact flow rate of your shower. “Smart”
shower timers, such as Shower Manager, automatically reduces the flow, and then shuts
off completely, at preset intervals.
6. Service Your Heating Equipment
Regularly
It doesn’t feel great to
pay an HVAC specialist to tell you there’s basically nothing wrong with your
furnace or boiler, but it’s better than the alternative: paying them a lot more
to fix a serious problem, or paying a fortune to bring them out in an
emergency. Virtually every HVAC company and independent professional offers
basic tune-up service for furnaces and boilers, so pricing is competitive. Call
around or look online to get a sense of what you can expect to pay and what
you’ll receive in return.
7. Cancel and Replace Your Landline
Phone Service
The vast majority of the U.S.
population lives under reliable cell phone coverage. Even if you don’t have
good cell service, you can replace your landline with a VoIP system such
as MagicJack or BasicTalk, which cost a
fraction of legacy landline plans. Both require high-speed Internet
service from a local utility. VoIP systems are generally plug-and-play,
meaning you can install and configure them without technical expertise in an
afternoon. However, it’s best to keep a cell phone
plan in reserve, possibly at a lower price point, to avoid
total loss of phone service in case of a weather-related Internet outage.
Final Word
You don’t have unlimited time and
funds. However, you can stretch your finances and bandwidth a bit further with
a compromise approach to home improvement – “buy it yourself,” or BIY.
A BIY project finds you purchasing
the materials, and possibly tools, necessary to complete the job, generally in
close consultation with your contractor.
The contractor then completes the job as usual, charging only for labor and
incidental expenses. In other words, you get the materials at cost, avoiding
the contractor’s inevitable markup, and save a boatload of time to boot.
According to House Logic, the BIY approach can reduce the total cost of a
major project by 20%. On a tight personal
budget, that’s not exactly chump change
Thanks so much,
ERA
Skyline Real Estate
3376
Harrison Blvd.
Ogden,
UT 84403
(801)627-6500
